Wanders on the Great Allegheny Passage | Flora | Bloodroot

Bloodroot is a perennial native to Eastern North America. It is an early bloomer, sometimes flowering by the beginning of April. Its white flowers are so attractive that it is sometimes cultivated as an ornamental, especially by gardeners who want an early-flowering plant in their gardens. Along the GAP it most commonly occurs in moist woods and along the banks of small streams. The plant gets its name from the red sap of its roots, which is poisonous, as are the leaves, which are eaten by few if any herbivores. The active ingredient in the sap has been touted as a cancer cure, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration includes supplements containing bloodroot extract in its list of “187 Fake Cancer 'Cures' Consumers Should Avoid.” Also, the flowers do not produce nectar, making them unattractive to bees. GAPers are advised to admire the beautiful flowers, but leave the rest of the plant alone.

04.14.25

04.14.25

Wanders on the Great Allegheny Passage | Flora | Artemisia

There are numerous species of artemisia worldwide, perhaps the best-known being Artemisia vulgaris, commonly known as mugwort; Artemisia absinthium, or wormwood, one of the main ingredients in the psychoactive alcoholic drink absinthe, long banned in the United States because of its alleged hallucinogenic properties but now once again legal; and Artemisia ludoviciana, or white sage, famous for its use in Native American smudging ceremonies. 

The species that occurs in profusion along the GAP is probably Artemisia verlotiorum. A native of Eurasia, it was named after the brothers Jean Baptiste and Pierre Verlot, who in 1877 identified it as a different species from Artemisia vulgaris,   although it has much the same medicinal and magical properties. The name of the genus is derived from Artemis, the Greek Goddess of the Moon. Paradoxically, Artemis is associated with both wild animals and the hunt (she and her twin brother are in Greek mythology credited with inventing the bow and arrow) and with childbirth and the care of children. She is often regarded as a protector of women in general. Her Roman form, Diana, is both the Goddess of the Hunt and the Protectress of Virginity. 

The medicinal and magical lore involving the various species of artemisia around the world, including Artemisia verlotiorum, is vast. Known as the “Mother of Herbs”,  artemisia is traditionally associated with women, and infusions, decoctions, and tinctures of artemisia leaves have been used to ease menstrual pain, aid childbirth, and support menopause. Both men and women have used artemisia to treat high blood pressure, improve circulation, and as a bitter tonic to stimulate digestion. Apart from its medicinal qualities, a simple infusion of Artemisia sweetened with maple syrup is a flavorful substitute for tea when used in moderation.

The crushed leaves of artemisia have a very distinctive smell.  Burned as incense,  the dried leaves are famous in many cultures worldwide for dispelling negative energy and warding off malignant spirits and other malevolent entities, including hostile human beings. (Raccoons, it should be noted, are not repulsed by artemisia; despite their bandit-like masks and propensity for mischief and thievery they are essentially benign creatures.)  Sachets of artemisia can also be worn around the neck or elsewhere on the body to repulse negative influences.  Fresh leaves placed under a pillow while one is sleeping are said to prevent nightmares and encourage lucid dreaming. If GAPers do nothing else, they should crush a handful of leaves and breathe in its intriguing aroma. 

Young artemisia growing among the previous year’s stalks. 05.05.25

Artemisia grows in profusion along the GAP. 06.25.25

Flowering artemisia. 09.16.25

Flowering artemisia. 10.09.25

Flowering artemisia. 10.12.25

Dried leaves of artemisia make excellent incense.

Wanders on the Great Allegheny Passage | Goldenrods

There are at least seventy-five species of goldenrods (genus Solidago) native to North America. You are likely to encounter four goldenrods of the genus Solidago, plus another of the genus Euthamia, along the GAP. The goldenrod season opens in July with the appropriately named early goldenrod (Solidago juncea). Usually three to four feet tall, it has showy plumes of golden-yellow flowers, unlikely to be mistaken for any other plant. Fairly common on the GAP, is seems for some reason to be even more common along roads that cross the GAP, in some places thickly lining roads for hundreds of yards. 

Early Goldenrod

Early Goldenrod

Towards the end of July and into the middle of August the flat-topped goldenrod  (Euthamia graminifolia) makes its appearance. Although called a goldenrod, it belongs to the genus Euthamia, unlike other goldenrods. Three to four feet tall, its flowers consist of florets arrayed in a  flat circle, rather than in a plume like most other goldenrods. 

Throughout August the wrinkled-leaf goldenrod flowers. Although its showy plumes are not unlike early goldenrod, its leaves have a distinctive wrinkled look, and the leaves and stems tend to be a darker green than other goldenrods. 

Wrinkled-leaf Goldenrod

Wrinkled-leaf Goldenrod

The signature plant of Autumn, the aptly-named tall goldenrod (Solidago altissima), flowers from the beginning of September to well into October. It can get up to six or seven feet tall and is extravagantly adorned with flamboyant plumes of yellow flowers. It grows in profusion along the GAP and often entirely covers adjacent meadows. This is one plant you cannot miss if you travel on the GAP after the first of September. 

Meadow full of Tall Goldenrod

Tall Goldenrod

Tall Goldenrod

Less obvious is the woodland goldenrod (Solidago caesia). Unlike most other goldenrods,  usually found in open, sunny areas, woodland goldenrod prefers, as the name implies, the shady floor of hardwood forests. It’s the smallest goldenrod, often two feet tall or less, seldom exceeding three, and its delicately flowered plumes are modest compared to its more flamboyantly showy cousins. 

Woodland Goldenrod

Woodland Goldenrod

Woodland Goldenrod

USA | Pennsylvania | Mt. Davis

While in the GAP town of Meyersdale I wandered up to Mt. Davis, the highest point in Pennsylvania. There are two routes to Mt. Davis. Going via the route that passes through the village of St. Paul it’s a 12.4 mile ride from downtown Meyersdale to the parking lot near the Observation Tower at the summit. 

About three miles outside of Meyersdale, on Mt. Davis Road, I stopped at the famous Summit Country Market. This place has a staggering variety of treats including chocolate-covered raisins and nuts, a formidable selection of soft drinks, including ginger beer and sarsaparilla, and a jaw-dropping selection of spices. Great cheese and cold cuts array too.

Summit Country Market (click on photos for enlargements)

Just beyond the market is the village of Summit Mills, where some people were seriously getting into the Halloween spirit.

Halloween decorations on Summit Mills

Beyond Summit Mills is the heart of Amish Country, with numerous well-appointed farms.

St. Paul Church in the village of St. Paul

Picnic area

After about ten miles the road begins its ascent to the Mt. Davis ridgeline. The climb is easy for electric bikes but may be a bit daunting for regular bikes. Just short of the summit is a nice little park with picnics tables. Just past the park is the summit ridgeline.

Just past the summit sign a narrow road turning off to the left leads .9 of a miles to the parking lot near the Summit Observation Tower. 

Sign marking the turnoff to the Observation Tower

From the parking lot it’s 228 steps to the Observation Tower.

Beginning of the trail to the Observation Tower

Observation Tower

View from the Observation Tower

Great Allegheny Passage | New Book

In Cumberland, Maryland, the Spring, or Vernal, Equinox occurred at 11:06 p.m. on March 19, according to the Gregorian calendar imposed on the world by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582. The Equinox marks the astrological astronomical beginning of the spring season in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s often said that the Spring Equinox is when day and night are of equal length. Actually, due to an astronomical quirk, the date when day and night are equal, known as the Equilux, is usually a few days before the Equinox. This year March 15 has eleven hours, fifty-nine minutes, and fifty-five seconds of daylight. The next day has twelve hours, two minutes, and thirty-one seconds of daylight, so the pendulum has already swung toward longer days. The day of the Equinox has twelve hours, ten minutes, and twenty-four seconds of daylight. The next day has twelve hours, thirteen minutes, and zero seconds, making it two minutes and thirty-six seconds longer than the day before. The procession is on to the Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year, on June 20. I have decided that between the Spring Equinox and the Summer Solstice I will wander on the Great Allegheny Passage, a bike and hiking trail built on the roadbeds of now-abandoned railroads that extends 150 miles from Cumberland to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Another trail, the C&O Canal Towpath, runs 184.5 from Cumberland to Washington, D.C, making it possible, in season, to ride a bike—or hike, if you are so inclined—334.5 miles from Pittsburgh to Washington. No motorized vehicles (except for electric bikes) are allowed on the entire path. Before proceeding on the GAP I will first explore the city of Cumberland . . . Continued.

 

Wanders on the Great Allegheny Bike Trail | New Book

The 3,294-foot Big Savage Tunnel north of Frostburg closed for the winter on November 30, 2023, and would not reopen until March 28, 2024, thus effectively ending the biking season for through-trips between Cumberland and Pittsburgh. I spent the winter holed up in Frostburg, Maryland, which I am using as a base for my wanderings on the GAP. After the November 30 tunnel closing a few brief snow squalls laid down an inch or less of snow that quickly melted and occasionally rain would freeze at the higher altitudes, making the trail treacherous, but other than during these brief episodes the GAP remained open to the tunnel for much of December and early January. In late January and in February a few heavy snowfalls closed the GAP completely. The last big blizzard, which dropped close to six inches of snow, hit just before the Spring Equinox on March 19. It took almost a week for the snow to melt off the GAP north of Frostburg. As soon as the trail was clear I rode up to Big Savage Tunnel . . .  Continued.

Wanders on the Great Allegheny Passage Bike Trail | Raccoons | New Flora

Moon Day 12

Starts Jul 6, 2025 05:30 PM
Ends Jul 7, 2025 06:32 PM

Saw a family of raccoons crossing the GAP near the Mason-Dixon Line—a mother (I assume it was the mother; I do not know the role of males in raccoon family life) and four or five half-grown kits. Most of the litter scrambled up the hillside, but one kit got left behind and sought refuge in a tree. 

(Click on photos for enlargements)

Spotted three new flowers. Woodland sunflowers:

Thimbleberry, also known as Tall Anemone:

Pale Indian Plantain, still in budding stage:

Milkweed is flowering!!!

Wanders on the Great Allegheny Passage Bike Trail | Deer | Flora

Moon Day 10

Starts Jul 4, 2025 03:26 PM
Ends Jul 5, 2025 04:27 PM

Keep seeing this two fawns at the same place. I assume they are twins (click on photos for enlargement),

Witches Broom flourishing!!!

Oswego Tea (Beebalm) is in bloom.

And here is a real find. Ghost pipe! 

Also, Rhododendron, like Mountain Laurel a signature plant of the Alleghenies, is in bloom all along the GAP.

Jewelweed in flower.

The flamboyantly showy Tiger Lily is a native of East Asia. It was introducing into America as an ornamental and now grows wild along the GAP.  Also seen in the flower gardens of houses along the GAP.